Shish kebabs, kebabs, kabobs, satays, sates, brochette, shaslik, skewers, yakitori, spiedini. Whatever names they go by, however that name is spelled, I love them. They have been around for centuries. The website homecooking.about.com says Columbus was very fond of a Portuguese version called espetadas, beef cubes marinated in wine and roasted over an open fire. My old Larousse Gastronomique attributes the name kebab to Turkey, where the meat used was and is lamb, mutton or buffalo. Satays or sates (accent over the "e", which I really must figure out how to do) are Indonesian and Malaysian. Brochettes, of course, are French, yakitori Japanese and spiedini Italian. Shasliks come from Asia and eastern Europe. Indian cuisine boasts a few kebabs of its own. I suppose we will never know who stuck the first piece of meat onto the first skewer, but he or she gave us a fun way to serve dinner.
When I try to analyze why I love these skewers of grilled food so much, I can't really come up with a definitive answer. One reason is their versatility. Just about any food, savory or sweet, can be threaded onto skewers. These can be grilled outdoors or in. They can even be oven-roasted. That way, even when it's too cold to grill outside (although I know grilling fans won't agree there is such a time) skewers can be winter food, too. Another reason I like them is they give me the feeling I'm eating more than I actually am. The deck of cards definition for portion control looks a whole lot larger when the protein source is cut into cubes and threaded on to a ten-inch skewer.
Speaking of skewers, if cooking this way becomes a habit, buy stainless steel. These are reusable and hold up to heat. Bamboo skewers have to be soaked for at least 30 minutes in warm water prior to use. This stops them from burning, but the method doesn't work well for thin wooden skewers like the ones for cocktail kebabs. With those I use a different method. I cover the exposed ends with foil and this keeps them fairly safe from the heat. Flavor-infused wood skewers are even available now from a company called Callisons Fine Foods. These are a very clever variation on the theme of using woody rosemary stalks striped of leaves. They work, they come in six flavors and don't have to be soaked first.
Marinating gives skewered food flavor and helps tenderize meat like cubed leg of lamb. The choices are practically endless, but the flavors should be robust enough to stand up to heat. Spices are a good choice and so are strong herbs like thyme, rosemary, sage and savory. Some kind of acidulating ingredient is needed for tenderizing. Try wine, vinegar, yogurt or fruit juices. Just be careful with fresh pineapple and some other tropical fruit juices which can break down the meat if it's left in too long. Oil will add moisture to the food and help herbs and spices stick.
I like to cook the meat and vegetables on separate skewers, although peppers, mushrooms and tomatoes will do alright alongside the meat. I usually parboil onion pieces first. I think they need a bit more time to lose their raw taste and by then, the meat can get overdone. Unless you want very crisp veg, parboil zucchini, carrots, squash, shallots, pearl onions and new potatoes. Eggplant can be done either way.
As this piece was meant to be done in July, I've been chatting long enough. Let's cook.
The Recipes
Spiedini alla Romana
Serves 4 as an entree, 8 as an appetizer
This is not easy. I would recommend using a broiler rather than grill for this to keep the cheese where it belongs.
1 loaf ciabatta, focaccia or other Italian bread
1 1/2 lbs Mozzarella balls (large or small)
1/2 cup olive oil
8 anchovy fillets or 4 cloves minced garlic
Italian parsley or fresh basil leaves
Cut the bread into 20 pieces or slices about the same size as the cheese. Cut large Mozzarella balls into 1/2-inch thick slices or cut small balls in half to make 16 pieces of cheese in all. Thread 4 large or 8 small skewers, starting and ending with bread. Press cheese and bread closely together. Place a piece of oiled foil over broiler pan and place on the skewers drizzle with a little olive oil. Preheat broiler to 375 F or place shelf so that the pan will be 5- 6 inches away from the heat. Broil for 15 minutes, checking frequently so cheese doesn't melt away and bread doesn't burn. Meanwhile heat remaining oil in a skillet. Remove from the heat, add the anchovies and mash until completely dissolved. If you hate anchovies, cook the garlic in the oil until lightly browned. When the spiedini are done, place on plates, spoon over a little of the anchovy or garlic oil and garnish with herbs. For an entree, serve with a tomato salad with maybe some artichoke hearts and black olives.
Chicken Yakitori
Serves 4 as an entree, 8 as an appetizer
If you have no sake hanging around the kitchen, white wine may be used. The taste won't be quite the same, but it will still be good. Sansho, a powder made from the seed pods of prickly ash trees was traditionally sprinkled over Yakitori. Try Asian markets for it or check online. Substitute pepper if you can't find it.
3 tablespoons sake or dry white wine
2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch pieces
8 scallions, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1 1/2 cups teriyaki sauce (bottled is fine)
Sansho or freshly ground pepper
Combine sake or wine, sugar and soy sauce in a bowl. Add the sliced ginger and the chicken pieces. Leave to marinate for at least 3 hours. Skewer 4 pieces of chicken alternating with 3 pieces of scallions on 8 skewers. Grill or broil for 3 minutes per side or until chicken is no longer pink. Baste with teriyaki sauce. Serve 2 skewers per person for an entree along with more teryaki sauce. Sprinkle each skewer with sansho or pepper.
Sausage, Apple and Pepper Kebabs
Serves 4
This is practically foolproof. There is no worrying about how long to cook everything. Just cook it until the apples, peppers and sausage acquire a little brown.
1/2 cup honey
1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill
4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 lb smoked sausage (beef, pork or turkey), cut into 2-inch pieces
2 Granny Smith apples, cored but not peeled
1 large red pepper, cored, seeded and cut into 2-inch pieces
Whisk honey and dill, gradually whisking in the vinegar. Add the sausage and marinate about 2 hours. Cut apples in quarters. Thread ingredients onto the skewers alternating peppers, sausage and apples. Thread on apples skin side up. Brush with marinade and broil or grill until peppers and apples are tender and everything is slightly browned. Pour any remaining marinade over the top to serve.
Involtini di Pesce Spada
Serves 4
In an Italian recipe titles, involtini means rolls. The fish in these kebabs is sliced and rolled around a stuffing before being threaded on skewers alternating with tomatoes and lemon slices.
1 1/2 lbs of monkfish or tilapia
2 cloves minced garlic
1 tablespoon capers, drained and chopped
4 pitted black olives, chopped
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs
2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley
1 - 2 tablespoons lemon juice
Salt and pepper
2 lemons, cut into 1/2-inch thick pieces
4 Roma tomatoes
Olive oil
Set oven to 375 F. Cut fish into 1/2-inch thick slices about 3- inches long. For the monkfish, cut the tail in half or thirds, lengthwise, then into 2 - 3 pieces. Cut tilapia into 3 - inch long pieces. Mix the capers, olives, breadcrumbs, parsley and enough lemon juice to help the stuffing hold together. Add salt and pepper to taste. Place a small amount of stuffing on each piece of fish and roll up. Thread onto skewers beginning with tomato, followed by lemon, followed by fish, followed by lemon and tomato. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Place on an oiled baking sheet and drizzle with more oil. Bake the skewers for about 15 minutes. Raise the temperature to 500 F and bake a further 8 minutes to brown lightly. Serve immediately.
Spiced Lamb (or Beef) Kebabs
Serves 4
My exception to parboiled onion is in this recipe. The onion rings are thin enough to cook completely in the same length of time as the meat. If you want hotter flavor, use cayenne pepper instead of the black pepper.
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 clove minced garlic
1 teaspoon black pepper
Pinch of salt
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
4 tablespoons plain yogurt
1 1/2 lbs lamb, cut from the leg or top sirloin
1 onion, sliced into1/4 - inch thick rings
1 green pepper, seeded and cut into 1 inch pieces
Heat the oil in a small pan and add the cumin. Cook for 1 minute over moderate heat to roast the spice. Add the ginger, garlic, pepper, salt, cilantro and yogurt. Cut meat into 1 1/2- inch chunks and combine with the spice mixture. Marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours. Thread meat onto 8 skewers, alternating with the pepper pieces. Choose onion rings that are large enough in diameter to slip onto the skewers over the meat cubes. Grill or broil about 6 - 8 minutes per side or until meat and vegetables are done to your liking. For a quick sauce, combine 6 oz plain yogurt with 1 tablespoon chopped mint or dill, 1/4 teaspoon minced garlic, salt and pepper to taste and a pinch of sugar.
Pork Satays
Serves 4
A staple in Indonesian and Malaysian cuisine, these are kebabs made from pork, chicken or beef marinated in a spicy mixture and served with peanut sauce. As an appetizer, these satays will serve 8. This recipe is long, but not complicated.
Satays:
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Grated zest of 1 lime
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seed oil
2 cloves minced garlic
1 1/2 lbs pork tenderloin
Chopped cilantro
Peanut Sauce:
3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
3 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 clove garlic, minced
1/3 cup smooth, natural peanut butter
1 teaspoon sesame oil
Mix soy sauce, cayenne, lime zest, oils, and garlic. Trim fat and silvery tendon from the pork and cut into 3/4-inch pieces, thread onto skewers. Pour soy sauce mixture over the pork and marinate 1 hour. Preheat broiler or grill to high. Place skewers on foil over broiler pan and directly on grill rack about 3 inches from the heat. Cook about 4 minutes per side or until no longer pink. For the peanut sauce, warm vinegar, water and soy sauce. Add garlic and whisk in peanut butter until smooth. Stir in sesame oil and keep sauce warm. Sprinkle satays with chopped cilantro and serve with the sauce.
Brochette aux Herbes
Serves 4
This is a remembered recipe from a long ago trip to Paris. The brochettes are good without the sauce, but this is French after all.
1 1/2 lbs top sirloin or leg of lamb, cut into 1 1/2- inch chunks
6 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons red wine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh savory
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
Salt and pepper
Chopped fresh mint or parsley
Sauce:
1/2 cup red wine
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot or onion
1/4 cup tomato paste
1 1/2 cups beef stock
Salt and pepper
Pinch of sugar
1/3 cup heavy cream
Toss meat chunks with the oil and wine. Marinate for about 1 hour. Mix all the herbs, except mint or parsley, with a pinch of salt and pepper and add the meat chunks. Toss to coat the meat with herbs. Thread the meat onto skewers and grill or broil for about 6 minutes per side or until done as liked. Sprinkle with mint for lamb or parsley for beef.
Meanwhile combine wine, shallot or onion, tomato paste and stock and bring to the boil. Simmer until thickened and reduced to about 1 cup. Add salt and pepper to taste and a pinch of sugar. Stir in the cream. Bring back to the boil. Serve with the brochettes.
Vegetable Kebabs
Serves 4 - 8
Serve these as an appetizer or side dish for 8 people or entree for 4. Get the smallest new potatoes you can find, about 2-inches diameter at the largest. These kebabs don't really need tenderizing, but the marinade will add extra flavor. This marinade is practically all-purpose, so keep the recipe for whatever you are grilling.
12 very small new potatoes, scrubbed
4 zucchini
12 pearl onions, peeled
1 large red or yellow pepper, cut into 1-inch pieces
Marinade:
9 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
2 tablespoons rosemary leaves
Coarse salt and cracked black pepper
Cut the zucchini into pieces about the same size as the potatoes. Parboil the potatoes and onions for 5 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook for about 3 - 4 more minutes until zucchini is slightly softened, but not cooked through. Drain and thread all the vegetables onto skewers, alternating the different ones. Mix all marinade ingredients, except the salt and pepper. Pour over the vegetable kebabs, turning to coat evenly. Leave for 1 hour. Preheat grill or broiler and cook the kebabs for 6 - 7 minutes, turning and basting frequently until lightly browned. To serve, pour over a little remaining marinade and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Next: Cooking for Mr. Meat
